There were some differences between the Zundapp frame and the Hodaka frame. I don't know about the geometry or dimensions, just remember that the Hodaka version was made with smaller tubing and they were prone to break at the streering head if ridden hard.

If you can look up the prior issues of Resonator Revisited (The Hodaka Clubs newsletter) go to Volume 2, issue 14. There is an article about replacement headlights.
Hope this helps.

Very feasible as I have seen a few of them converted to Hodaka engines. Best engine depends on what you want to do with it.

I miss those days. In Florida we could ride year round. Back in the 70's we could ride our bikes out from the back yard and hit woods and trails for miles. No one ever bothered with you and we respected other peoples property and stayed away for houses (even with quiet bikes we didn't want to upset ...

.... .... .... (the sound of grass growing)

Foot peg mounts were painted frame color. The foot peg, spring and mounting bolt were all just plated.

Yes, that's pretty much it. Use a spring compressor and compress the spring enough to slip the spring keeper off. Then carefully back off on the spring compressor until the spring is extended fully ( be very careful as the compressed spring has a lot of potential energy). Once fully extended, remove...

I think you are on the right path as far as jetting goes. I know the Combat that Bullfrog has runs well. His pipe is a special built one (at least it used to be) and that can effect jetting slightly.
Just to add, if you list where you are (climate and elevation) it will also influence the jetting.

Don't know if he does it, but have you checked with Glen Watkins? He might have a recommendation.

You could check with hodaka-parts.com. I think they either do or used to sell the Progresives. They can probably also tell you what their races are using as far as springs, shocks etc. If you google Vintage motcross shocks. a few sites will come up and there are other brands of vintage shocks availa...

What do you have as far as suspension upgrades now? What group do you race with and what are their rules on suspension, travel, etc, For starters on the forks, you can play with oil wt. and amounts. You can also try different spring pre-loads (a thick piece of pvc tube can be cut to different length...

For the Super Combat I think I was running 20wt fork oil, manual recommends 6 oz. of 20 wt. Some people use ATF, which is very similar to fork oil. ATF Type F is approx. 15 wt.

The more I look at the photo of your fork damper rods, the one you have labeled as the 95 rod does not look like the right one. Could you take a photo of the disassembled fork and check the measurements of the tubes? Your bike might have a set of forks off another brand of bike.

That Hot Tip on the forks is only designed for the original forks on the Ace 100 model B+, the Super Rat model 93A and 93B, the Wombat model 94 and 94A, the Combat Wombat model 95 and the Dirt Squirt model 96. As you can see from your photos, the damper rods are completely different from the 95 to t...

Probably easiest to just ship the case to California Hodaka and let the expert rebuild it. That way you know it is done right the first time and will last a long time. I always send questionable case to them to be rebuilt.

To all out there in Hodaka Land, hoping you have a Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah. Another year is right around the corner, so Happy New Year to all.

Now, lets get working on all the Hodaka projects in the shed or garage (I know I have a couple to finish)..

I don't think you can post a video on this site...just photos. If you are on Facebook, join the Hodaka Club or Hodaka Motorcycles group and post the video there, Then, instead of trying to decipher the knowledgeable responses from the wild a&& guesses, put up a post here asking for responses...

Only thing I might add is to insure that the countershaft sprocket nut is tightened properly and checked regularly for tightness.

I dont know where you can find them, but check for a Duro HF313 tire. Their catalog list them in a 3.50x17 and a 2.75x19. It is a full knobby tire.

There are still some of the DH reed valves and some GEM reed valves (which should also work) out there. I see them pop up on ebay from time to time. Also, if you are on facebook, go to the hodaka groups/pages and put in a request, you might find one that way. Also, check with hodaka-parts.com and Ca...

The wheel sizes (19" front and 17" rear) are what came on the chrome tank Dirt Squirt. The Wombat originally came with 21" front and 18" rear. As for tires, the 17" rear rim limits what is available as there are not many bikes that use that size rim (mostly just vintage bike...

As far as an inexpensive silencers for your Hodaka, you could go real old school and get a exhaust pipe/silencer from a VW beetle. They had two (usually chrome) exhaust pipes coming off the muffler and these pipes were baffled. I remember seeing quite a few people using them on their 2 strokes back ...

How tight of a fit is the c/s sprocket to the splines on the counter shaft? I have seen where a c/s sprocket from another bike was fitted and it appeared to be right, but the inner dimensions were just a little off. This resulted in not enough engagement between the c/s sprocket and the c/s splines ...

Those primary gears would be from the model 93 or 93A Super Rat (the 93B used a 21/59 gear set). Which, with the transmission gears you have (the Ace 100 and the model 93 Super Rats had the same internal gears, just different primary gears) would be the same as a model 93 and 93A Super Rat. The Supe...

The main differences are in the gearing, The Dirt Squirt had the same internal gear clusters as the Combat Wombat (which is also the same as the Wombat, except for the Wombat has an overdrive 5th gear) and it has a different primary gear set. Aside from that, the engines are pretty much the same. If...