I believe this happens with all engines to some degree. I remember seeing a fuel cloud dancing over the carb on my '79 Mustang Cobra, probably for the same general reason. Wet intake system, overlapping intake and exhaust timing.

What is your jetting now? How does it compare to the "stock" jetting for your model? For what it is worth, I don't change jetting for a break-in. You can use a step richer oil mix of you wish, depends on what you are running generally. More important to breaking in an engine is to run it w...

This is perhaps the most definitive discussion one is likely to find regarding two stroke oil, lubrication, oil migration, and all the related issues regarding what to use and what ratio works best.

http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm

From time to time, someone asks everyone to identify their location. Doing so is not a requirement of the forum, and I think for good reason. It is becoming easier with time to discover information about people on the Internet. Some of us have no problem with saying where we are from, others do have...

Thanks for the report, Vic. Sounds like a much better solution than trying to hot weld old plastic.

While your description is perhaps generally true, I disagree that oil separates from gas/air as a vapor and stays in the crankcase until higher revs are achieved. If this premise were true, why does the engine, as you mention, begin to get more and more smokey as it sits and idles? It may be that SO...

Clarence,

I agree that the cases may not like higher torque with slim bolts, but am confused about the converting inch pounds to foot pounds warning. Twelve inch pounds is one foot pound. Math doesn't lie, so what is the warning about?

I ran Green/Gold Blend. But only when racing cross country. It indirectly caused my first and only crank failure because I didn't completely run the carb dry before switching from whatever petro oil I was using to the castor blend offered by my race mate. Oops. Finished the race fortunately, sixth i...

Okay, here is a link to the MSDS data for Ring Free. Not much help because 70% of the ingredients are listed as proprietary, but assuming they are all in the same class of chemical, these things are already found in gasoline.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/forms/ACCRNGFREE12.pdf

"Ring Free PLUS Exclusive, synthetic PLUS formula provides superior deposit control; cleaning fuel injectors, carburetors, intake valves, intake ports and combustion chambers. Contains metal filmers to help protect fuel system components like silver solder, copper, aluminum and steel from the c...

If you mean how much ring free, I believe they list what they call a "shock treatment" which is two ounces to a gallon, which is 64:1 gas to additive, instead of 1,280:1. At that rate perhaps it may get do something but I don't think Yamaha intends this rate of use all the time. Question i...

Using only generic values for M7 bolts, torque can go from 102 to as high as 132 inch-pounds. Just as Harry suggested using higher values on the Super Combat and similar engines, I can see using the same approach on the 100cc series -- IF -- using the book value does not successfully stop head gaske...

Unless there is an engineering paper out there showing a difference between outboard oil and motorcycle two stroke oil, I would start with the assumption that the biggest difference is market target. Oil is rated for use, and a comparison between ratings for outboard and two stroke cycle oil is warr...

Nearly as I can tell, Yamaha ring free is comparable in use to a dash of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in the gas. Not that this hurts anything, but the upper cylinder benefits of MMO are roughly akin to urban myth. In a two stroke, I would expect very little. But I also notice that this product is most ...

While one can identify model and year with just the first few digits, trust between buyer and seller seems to me to be an important thing. A Hodaka isn't going to be exactly cheap no matter the price, and I would want to know what I am getting into. On the other hand I would not buy one sight unseen...

Asking for the frame and engine number sounds reasonable to me. At least you will have a firm idea of what model you are looking at. There are so many people out there that think every Hodaka is a Combat Wombat or Super Rat, that it isn't even funny. eBay is the best place to find parts misidentifie...

Electronic flashers for LEDs are available at the auto parts store. I have been using them for many years even without LED lights because they are more regular in their flash rate, independent of load.

Most LED fixtures work from 9V to 36V. That's pretty close to what a Hodaka puts out. Easy enough to try with any 12V LED lamp which are becoming more common in most auto parts or RV parts stores.

I found a chart showing not only standard torque values for metric fasteners, but values for each grade of metal within the same size range, and more interesting to me, the "clamp force" achieved with each torque value.

The carb is dirty on the outside to be sure but the slide looks clean, and until you take it apart, it's hard to say what condition it is in. It may work just as it is. My carb has been filthy lots of times. It a dirt bike. Clean it off, take it apart, and look inside. The rest of the bike looks bet...

I would look for something along this line. Should have a broad range of voltage input and very low load demand.

http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-p ... rn-signals

I notice that lubed torque values are lightly lower than dry. Using loctite, i would use the lubed value. The Internet offers a spread of values but in the same range as you mention. Seems that 60 inch pounds is probably a dry value. I will try the torque wrench when the time comes. Uniformity can't...

Must be nice.

are you folks using TIG or MIG to weld the case?

i will be tearing down my old engine this winter and will try using a torque wrench to reset the case screws. Depending on my impression of the result I may use that approach, or may use it with a spot of blue loctite. up to this point I have never used thread lock on case screws, but if I am going ...