14.1666 pounds (170 / 12). Also correct that the taper shaft, offering a very large frictional surface, along with the keyway, provides the grip. The nut just holds it all together. Try this: put the flywheel on, and torque to 14 ft/lbs. Then remove the nut and see if you can remove the flywheel wit...

And anyway, a condenser should be checked for capacitance, not resistance. The capacitance is or should be the same regardless of polarity since the function of the capacitor (condenser) is not polarity specific and will build an electrical charge in either direction.

Having checked two new condensers just today, to see how they acted, I find they have the ability to build a charge in either polarity (direction). The function of allowing electricity to pass one way but not the other is a diode. Using an ammeter on a condenser, I get a building resistance over the...

I was thinking drilling through the upper flat on the pedal arm, just under where you see the safety wire in the photo. I would use as small a bolt or screw as I thought would get the job done. Maybe even #6 screw.

The lube, just a tiny dab, goes between the (usually reddish brown) fiber contact point and the crank eccentric that it rides on. There is probably a preferred lube for this, like some kind of synthetic goo. I used to use bearing grease because that's what I had. Just don't use so much that it fling...

Not "re-sleeved" because the original process is a bi-metal casting of some sort not a sleeve. But if the ferric part is bored out, the aluminum casting can be sleeved -- as far as I know having never done it. If someone has tried it, let us know how it worked.

Just to put Mikuni carbs in perspective, my wife once took an adult education course in motorcycle maintenance. I don't remember why, because she didn't know how to ride, and wasn't allowed to work on my bike. Then I visited her class one night, which was being taught by my Hodaka parts supplier and...

Take the condenser out and check continuity again. If it now breaks circuit when points open, sounds like the condenser may be short to ground. I don't know about the solder thing. Are you referring to the mounting strap? When I resistance check a new condenser, there is an initial period showing co...

I expect a vacuum pump would work. Don't see why not. Tipping the bike away from the clutch side is going to work to some extent as well, at getting out that last few ounces of oil. Taking off the side cover has the added advantage of letting you clean out any debris that may have accumulated there,...

I have found that temporary fixes sometimes last for years. Yours looks like it could outlive all of us. The only part I wouldn't go out of my way to do is the rubber on the pad part of the pedal. I raced mine for two years with bare steel, and never had any issues of slipping off the pedal. Adding ...

This raises an interesting question for me. A "complete" refresh on the oil would be ideal, and easier is better usually. Has anyone found a way to safely port the engine case so that more oil drains back to the main transmission case from the clutch cover side of the wall? Or is this even...

I would take up the offer to TIG and rebore, which PowerSeal would have to do anyway, in order to apply their process, or they would have to overbore it, sleeve it, rebore it, and then seal with with Nikaseal (or Nikasil depending on who offers the product and service). I believe PowerSealUSA would ...

Toes on the pegs? WOW! I would not trust myself doing that. Have worn out more than one pair of boots by the pegs chewing up the arch of the boot, which is where my foot stays full time. Shifter and brake are in reach without changing foot position. For Forrest, the question is whether the reason yo...

Like I said, establishing a value other than the state's default position is up to you. I have several times now hired a professional appraiser, and have yet to have a professional appraisal challenged by a state DMV, or by an insurance company.

We all try the simple things first. That's our nature, and frankly it works more than half the time. As to why a seal would go bad, there are two or three possibilities that come to mind: 1) the seal was NOS going on 40 years old, and did not have the vitality it needed to last. If you have to repla...

Eight years ago, I bought a 1968 Kaiser CJ5 in Alaska that had been previously titled to an individual, but had been abandoned to the possession of a repair shop. Most of the hoops I went through to get a title are not related to this discussion because I didn't start with your typical sale between ...

Danny,

Intense reading. Thanks for taking the time.

They are right, I left out the tap it out the top part. Needle jets are pretty simple, and I doubt very much that this is the problem. Look through some of the tech articles on the Strictly Hodaka site, and there is one about hop up tips for the Super Combat (I think it is the second such article, n...

Received word this afternoon from Chris, who says that SLP has decided that the pipe is right, the muffler wrong, so we should just stand by for news. Makes sense to me since the filler pipe on the stinger is a fairly standard size, i.e., 1.125". That would suggest the muffler inlet, which is o...

Curious. 30 gas to 1 oil is leaner than 20 to one, far as oil goes. You might expect the fouling to be the other way around. Sounds like something else

Remove carb, dump gas, invert, remove four screws holding float bowl in place. Remove bowl, then remove the little o-ring on the needle jet. using crescent or the right, but tiny, wrench, gently unscrew the jet. Why do you think the jet is work, as opposed, say, to the needle. These parts rarely wea...

I guess I would have to ask if it is oil fouling or fuel fouling. Jetting would lead to fuel fouling perhaps, but the engine is very tolerant of fuel richness now that we don't use leaded gas anymore. If it is oil fouling and your blend is right, could be a crank seal. Also possible is bad gas. Seem...

Taking the stock baffle out entirely is always a good way to test for clogging. If you still have the stock spark arrester (the little spiral bullet) in there, mine always clogged fast so I took it out. Back in the 70's we were not worried about spark arresters, even when running in the National For...

I have to admit that a bike has to be pretty far out of spec before you start getting starting and idle issues. My old race engine is 10/1000 out and still runs okay, starts reliably, and idles without a lot of fuss. If I didn't know how it ran when fresh, I would not notice much of a problem now, a...

So we are back to the question: What do you want to do with it?