Rocking is helpful in allowing the shift balls to engage when the gears are not turning. Usually only needed when the engine is not running. If it is running, and the clutch pack is not stuck, it should shift without fiddling. But, if the shift lever is disconnected from the shaft, it won't shift, o...

The thought of tossing Hodaka parts, used or otherwise, period correct or not, is painful. I stripped all the lighting and chrome fenders from my 100B back in 1972. They sat in a box for years and were simply left behind when I moved in the mid 70's because they were, to me, just "junk." T...

Judging from the electrical spec on the various ignition coils used in the Ace 100, 100B, and 100MX, the MX version steps up voltage nearly twice as much as the trail versions. However, they all work. The Ace 100 and 100B engines were intended for a lower revving, less stressed application, while th...

Clarence's method is exactly how I have done it, with all brands having the same basic set up. Tighten and bump, repeat. And the bump is straight in on the center screw, not a bump on the screw lever to make it tighter. It is the shock that breaks it loose. Heat could be used as a last resort, but I...

Ed, It is hard to agree and disagree at the same time, but here goes. I agree that all of the bullet points you named do in fact create an oil "pumping" from case wall to washer to bearing and out. Whether this happens more at one point in the clutch cycle (clutch in/clutch out) than anoth...

Oh, and make sure the kill switch is not grounded.

Given the symptoms, I have no doubt it is okay, just dirty. Pull the flywheel and clean it. Make sure the flywheel inner surface is free of rust. Remove the bug dust that got on the points. Should be just fine. You have to expect something if it has been siting 20 years without use.

Here's an installation note from the manual on clutch installation: tighten the crankshaft nut to 250 inch pounds. Do not over-tighten, or the pinion bushing will swell and seize. Something to consider, mechanical deformation of the bushing, which no amount of oil additive or modification to grooves...

Even though these parts just press in they should be snug when assembled. If loose, there may be something missing such as a washer between jet and body, or the carb body could be damaged from mid assembly at some point, or the main jet could be not screwed in all the way.

Just to clear things up a bit more. The clutch pinion bushing does not rotate on the crankshaft. When the clutch nut is tightened the bushing is held tightly against the clutch inner thrust washer and rotates with the crankshaft. Doesn't matter. The clutch is a spinning assembly, and oil migrates f...

Clarence, Intrigued by your mention of Wynn's Friction Proofing, I ran a Google search to find out what it was. What I found, in addition to the usual advertisement stuff, was an article compiled and published by Fred Rau of Road Rider Magazine several years back. In an article titled Snake Oil, Fre...

Thanks Rich.

GMc

Try checking voltage at the stop lamp socket. If you have a meter that discriminates between AC and DC, you get two answers with one check.

Anyone who has had in hand a new Clarke tank and a new Hodaka emblem has probably noticed that the badge is a bit bigger than the indentation in the tank. The badge stands out of the hole, and wobbles around and rocks back and forth because of the differences. A few measurements have led me to an in...

Regarding the comment about holes draining oil away, frankly, that is what the holes are supposed to do. But consider where the holes would be "draining" oil from and to. Centripetal acceleration will move oil from the crankshaft to the clutch, in that direction. A spinning assembly will n...

Drilling should not hurt, but I would not deepen the grooves. Deburr, and chamfer all holes.

I have found that the 17 tooth sprockets usually cause a bit if chain drag on the housing, most often on the lower rear case screw boss. Check for clearance, especially at full suspension droop.

To some extent it depends on why it is "stuck." A really small amount of corrosion can cause the piston skirt to stick, in which case a penetrating lube should let you get it unstuck and apart. Since this is a new bike to you and you weren't there when it got stuck, you might also consider...

The comment about the slide cut out facing outward is critical. The slide WILL go in backwards, and when it does, the slide will be just about wide open all the time. This is the most likely thing to go wrong. Happens all the time but usually only once per customer. Friend of mine long ago did this,...

For what it is worth: Since the top nut is aluminum and the fork tube is steel, always loosen the top clamp bolt before attempting to remove the top nut. The tension on the nut from the clamping bolt is intentional. Seals for these bikes used to have exposed metal bodies so that when installed, the ...

My points are shot definitely, the bike has only 299 miles on it, not sure how that happens....... Pitted or burned out points in 299 miles is probably a bad condenser. Storage should not be an issue as long as you do not store under water. Points rarely "corrode." I would check the conde...

Not quite sure what dimension "thin" refers to, but guaranteed that the front sprocket does not wear without also the chain stretching and rear sprocket wearing as well. Replace all if one is worn beyond use. Stretched chain on new sprocket will quickly ruin the new sprocket because pin ce...

Are they leaking into the fuel line, or out the face of the valve, or between tank and petcock?

Now all you have to do is learn how to rewind coils.