Slow down. You'll go faster. It's nice that you checked the friction disks thickness - but that is only one detail. How about the steel plates - how many of 'em are in there? Which clutch disc (throw-out bearing) do you have? Is the pressure piece the right length - or did some strange part get in t...

Oooops. I don't know why the clutch drawing loaded twice. I'm better with Hodaka clutches than I am with computers.
Ed

I recognize that it is totally counter-intuitive . . . but the outside face of the clutch moves "out" (from the center-line of the engine) as the friction disks wear. So . . . if you have a situation where no clutch disc (throw-out bearing) shims are needed to achieve some free play at the...

Interesting. I've been thinking about your question . . . and I'd recommend the 03 engine or the Combat Wombat (95) engine. Either one would result in a nifty scooter.
Ed

"Pop" is right. It is quite possible the symptoms may not relate to a leak. But we agree that the first step is a diagnostic pressure test.

Ed

Clutch side crankshaft seal is a prime suspect. You'll have to split the cases for that one. Be sure to pressure/vacuum test the engine when you are done - two strokes MUST be airtight. NOTE: I'd highly recommend a pressure test to identify EXACTLY where your leak is before starting the tear down. O...

Here is the information you need.
Ed

Nicely presented (and illustrated) tip!
Ed

The memory I had for proper jetting of a reeded Combat Wombat engine (which it seems may be wrong), came from my days wayeeee back in the previous century when I wuz riding just such an engine in the ISDT Qualifier events for several seasons. While I'm appreciative of the comment about my current &q...

. . . so there is still a need for the occasional application of the rule, "Slow down. You'll go faster." Only occasionally now it seems.
Ed

I'd suggest a quick check to see if the control shaft will move "in" and "out" on your blue Wombat. You can check this by hand with no shift cover installed - engine OFF only. If chain is connected, rock the rear wheel back and forth to provide some gear movement to allow the bal...

Vic, When you do the assembly of the shifter components in the rebuilt shifter case, if you'll spend a bit of time psyching out how each piece interacts with the next in normal operation, you'll move further along the continuum from "grasshopper" to fully qualified Hodaka Mechanic. You hav...

Sorry, I don't "get" what is meant by slippage in this situation. But there are some (hopefully helpful) comments below. Why remove the engine for replacement of control shaft components? Every component which fits on the control shaft can be replaced with the engine in the frame and witho...

Do an online search for auto exhaust U-bends. I've found what I needed in the past by doing that.
Ed

Danged if I can remember the details. Seems like tweaking the pilot jet a bit richer was the main thing on carb. And maybe remachining the head for a bit "thicker" squish band - with compression lowered a teensy little bit. Possibly maybe.
Ed

Photo shows the exhaust spring tool I made. I like this type more than the T-handle kind. I can grab the tool with both hands and gain some "steerage" and even "twistage" control over the spring end. ALSO, making this tool out of a worn out Phillips screw driver (you KNOW you hav...

Hmmmm, just for kicks (and to assure that assumptions don't jump up and bite you someplace again), how about measuring the minor diameter and major diameter of the splines on the actual countershaft? It would be a bummer to source a new sprocket with a 21mm inner diameter and find that the countersh...

So I did some "back of the napkin" calculations . . . and those non-OEM sprockets result in a 25% reduction in the contact area between the contact faces of the countershaft splines and the contact faces of the countershaft sprocket splines. That is obviously not good for long term reliabi...

Looks homemade to me. Reasonably well made - but homemade.
Ed

My first and second motorcycles were Hondas. So the Poweroll information is sort of interesting. But you do know this is a Hodaka page right? We'd be more interested in information about your Hodaka.
Ed

I second the idea of at least doing a bit of searching for the period correct reed valve unit. Who knows you might just find one!

Ed

I really quite like the Duro tire on the rear of my Combat Wombat (18" tire), but I haven't ridden one of their 17" rears. It seems to me that the body of the Duro tire isn't as stiff/rigid as the Cheng-Shin . . . and I like that. Better "gription" and "feel" in the wet...

Awwlllriiiight! While I was coming up with (yet unspoken) crackpot ideas on how to "fix" Darrel's problem, y'all may have hit upon the cause of the problem! When Darrel gets to the point that he can talk about this situation, it would be good to get some accurate dimensions regarding the d...

Well dang! That IS depressing! When you get to the point that you can talk about it . . . It seems like we are seeing only two data points on these shearing failures - "New" . . . and "toast". Have there been any "mid-life" inspections which show things are starting to ...

I've never opened up that model of pipe, but I don't think there is any baffling in the pipe body. After a proper pipe barbecue I like to do some pretty aggressive rubber hammer whacking on the pipe to dislodge any carbon build-up which might still be stuck inside. Finally, have you followed the pub...