Paul at Strictly Hodaka probably has the bearings and a good machinist can measure them and fit them properly. I might stick with the bushing on the mainshaft because of the wear issues. As you may have read on the post I referred you to the 250 had a sleeve or "inner race" to protect the ...

Both the needle bearings you are speaking were available for ace 90s as a racing option. They came with instructions on machining the cases to accept the larger diameters. (anyone still have that sheet?) On my 94A Wombat project when rebuilding It I discovered that the countershaft bushing had faile...

Clarence--This is kinda funny--As soon as your post arrived I was sitting within 20 feet of an Ace 100 with the cases split--I quickly grabbed a rag and some lacquer thinner and confirmed the answer is "lacquer thinner". Seriously, thats all I ever used (along with the blade) thru the year...

Brian--I just sent you a message via the Hodaka Club--My address is in the directory.

Max

Brian--contact info sent to your site.

Max

I'm with Clarence, It looks sound to me--I'd go for it.

Maxie

Brian--I think the #924601 countershaft will work. It was used on Ace 100CC thru Super Combats. I'll have to study a bit more on this and see what I have to make it work.

Scribbler--Thanks for posting the instructions. I misplaced mine decades ago.

Thanks guys!

Max

As I remember it (Wow, that was many decades ago!) the close ratio CR was a specialty item for the 90 with splines on the mainshaft and a snap ring on the sprocket while the wide-ratio was the same as the new 100s would have. The 5-speeds required machining of the cases on the 90s but both the CR an...

I put the close ratio 5 speed in my 90 racer in the day--I remember the cool main shaft with some of the gears on splines and the snap ring on the sprocket. When I sold the shop in about 1972 I also sold the short tracker. Along about 1996 I started a search for the old bike. One friend said he saw ...

I have to agree with Rich, I think the brushed aluminum look is the way to go. The paint works good on the parts I mentioned ( also footpegs) but I never pass up polishing or brushing aluminum!

Maxie

Hey Linc--You might try Krylon "Metallics". It's in a spray can at your local hardware store. #1403 Dull Aluminum--I've been using it on restorations for kick stands, brake pedals and things that need that anodized look. It seems to be fairly durable and dries really fast--retouches good t...

More--the schematic on the SH site for the 250 SL shows the sleeve and lists it as "inner race". Mystery solved--good job Rich on pointing that out!

Thanks Rich--This all sounds very logical. Even if the sleeve was of equal hardness the sleeve would take all the wear and protect the mainshaft.

Max

You're right Bill, the Super Combat had a bushing on the main shaft and a caged bearing on the countershaft. This is getting confusing! My last post was about the countershaft on the super not the main shaft.

Maxie

And to continue our story the Super Combat went back to the caged needle countershaft bearing.

Max

Hey hodakaguy--now you have me double checking--I have an original Super Rat owners hand book #939510A for beginning frame #B-53113 that also shows the bushing. I'm with you- I thought otherwise.

Maxie

I also thought all Super Rats had the needle bearing but the schematics on the SH site show the 93A back to a bushing.

Max

While on this subject, it might be interesting to note that early on Hodaka offered a needle bearing kit for 90s with instructions on how to machine the cases to accept caged needle bearings on both the main and counter shafts. It was a modification done to my 90 racer at the time. The first super r...

Honestly, I've never tried the hydraulic method. I came up with this method years ago out of necessity. You have to admit that this method is more esthetically pleasing than grease, hammers and pliers! (lol). Also as far as 'special tools', the tap can be bought for less than the price of a new bush...

Happy Birthday Paul! I'm still ahead though--Maxie

Here's a quick and easy way to pull the main shaft bushing. The only special tool you will need is a 1/2 – 13 standard tap (#1) and a few things from the hardware store. Tap the bushing as shown (#2), about three turns will be all that is needed. You only want to tap about 1/2 the length of the bush...

Thanks Brian,I love these restoration projects. I don't think people realize what we started with and how much effort goes into a project like yours. Its a great lesson in problem solving and a good feeling when the project is finished and well done. Good job and thanks for sharing!

Max

Brian--how about some more pix of the bikes?

Maxie

Just got home--in the mail tomorrow--really

Maxie

OK gang--I'll bite--what the heck is a buzz box?

Maxie